Kelly Slater

00:01four three two one Kelly Slater we've been talking about doing this for how long a couple of years Wow thanks for having me thanks for being here I'm glad we finally got a chance to do it what are you in California for I know you broke your foot right I broke my foot real bad I had to do that might well my girlfriend's from San Clemente and her family lives there and so we kind of live here we're not moving around too much so I'm just kind of here right now I'm not competing I broke my foot I was surfing in South Africa about 15 months ago and I was just on a wave that I wouldn't consider a very big wave nobody would really consider dangerous and it all kind of closed out which is you know when it all breaks at once I just pulled in the thing because I was going to sort of wash in on the rocks right where that was and change boards and uh I was practicing I had to compete in about two

00:51hours and then I was just testing out different boards for some reason I wasn't riding the board I was planning on riding competition so I was gonna come in and change and switch to my norm board and I just pulled in this wave and just I kind of hesitated like usually you they ride those out and stay on your board or you jump off and I was kind of between the two and I kind of lifted my foot off of my back foot my leg was straight cuz I was kind of going to I think I was going to jump off and as my foot got my leg got locked back straight the board flipped in OH against the toes and it just broke the top my foot in half Oh like immediate like there's my god yeah we're looking at a photograph of the x-ray right now and it's like every bone is snapped well what you can't see so the you know you are you aware of the Liz Frank joint which is like that's where the first big

01:39metatarsal comes together so that first big joint on top of the foot there why was it called the Liz Frank joint Liz Frank was a doctor I think he's right I could I think that was the person that did the original surgery when you used to break your foot in a stirrup back a hundred years ago they said kite foot off oh god damn yeah so that was what what it that was kind of how this sort of joint got famous but normally what happens is those toes those two bones right there the first and second metatarsal can either spread or converge one way or the other and that's usually what al is Frank fracture is I had the best of the three which is I had a crack you can just see on the right side of ya if you go down with the cursor right there just a little lower there's a little crack right there right there on that corner um and then the next one broke across you can just see

02:34right there it's cracked across and then so it kind of went to line up and across the foot and then the other two are just destroyed yeah the third one displaced the fourth one shattered in about eight pieces the doctor said he lost count putting him back together and then you know you would know from injuries the problem with when they're shatters a bone they're not getting the blood flow so it's not like a four or five week repair job it's like that was like nine months before that thing was back together properly so when they do that how did they piece that shattered one back together again delicately and they put like a mesh over so I got to kind of like figure out how well I had I had a plate on the list Frank and then I had a plaint Playa kind of a bridge across the third and fourth and so they kind of meshed it all together and then I think I had 16 screws combined in all that to

03:29him it was it was brutal the problem with it was I did it in South Africa where I wasn't gonna get surgery so I had to wait for this one to go down for about six days before I could fly Oh God because they thought the foot was gonna swell too much because it was already swollen from the event so I iced the on my foot for like you know five days and sat there and watch unfortunately the waves were perfect I was sitting on the beaches watching perfect waves you know it's like that's like as painful as the injury to a surfer you know it's like watching a bunch of elk walk by in front of you and and not not scare to you right and so I I sat there because the the whole time prior to me being injured while I was there for like two weeks the waves weren't very good so I broke my foot in the way he's got great Oh decided watch it so it's that's painful for us but uh

04:16so that waited for this one to go down and then I it's two red eyes to get back it was there no way you could get it fixed in South Africa I maybe could've but then I was probably looking at saying Africa for a month or more and and also I didn't know that the quality sort of level of quality of doctor I was gonna get there and I I got a doctor I work with here and I called him straightaway I said look I it's my fourth broken foot but I've never broken it like this usually it's like let it heal for four weeks and you're surfing and it's all from surfing yeah and already the same way oh really really pretty much the board going back against the foot Wow because and usually it happens when I'm you know I don't know how well versed you are and surfing but when I'm tube riding and usually with my back to the wave which has happened two or three times so I'm in the wave the lip pitches

05:05over and lands but when that lands it sends a shock back into the way like you know when the lip hits flat water that lip some of the energy goes down and some disperses out and up and some comes back into the tube so if it does that you're in the wrong spot the board will flip into your feet but normally what we do is we when your backside barrel ride a lot of times you're grabbing the rail so you kind of have both your feet and your hand on it so you can handle that shock mmm but if you're just going no hand back side it's usually a pretty big intense barrel and and so that lip has a lot of energy and it shoots a ton of force back towards you and if the hit your board just rolling it can flip in your foot and break it do you know anybody else has broken their foot like you like that not this bad one guy on tour broke his foot pretty bad requiring

05:53surgery this year that look horrible man how long was it before you can walk now you're walking totally normal now so how long has it been since the surgery yeah so so I had surgery in end of July last year and then walking normal wasn't till maybe December January Wow well December I competed again but I probably shouldn't have but we're we're at pipeline in Hawaii which is you're not doing maneuver it's not a small wave kind of cop if the waves are small I wouldn't have served since it's a little easier because you take off and kind of trim a straight line right so you're kind of going straight you know even though you're riding the barrel you're kind of going straight but are you conscious of your foot being compromised yeah Wow I don't know it just that's my favorite event in the world so I just didn't want to miss it but if you broke your foot again yeah but then you

06:46know the bones were pretty good back together then and I could walk somewhat without pain and if I put myself in a real vulnerable vano vulnerable position on a wave I would kind of maybe jump off you know I wouldn't really push it it's not worth winning a contest oh yeah foot again but I'm sure to be able to surf pipeline with no-one else is kind of worth a little risk now when you are healing is there anything they give you that can accelerate bone healing or is there any supplements or a lot of it is kind of I mean it's the furthest place from your heart right so and it's it's down at the bottom of your body so you gotta kind of get that foot up like a lot of times I'll sit against a wall and elevate my foot and let it completely flush out you know when you're a kid and you kind of hold your hand and somebody pushes all the blood out of your hand you ever do that one no it's like this

07:35trick where somebody holds your your wrists your your arteries so no Bloods going in you push all the hand all the blood out and then you let it go and it's like a little spider web feel like if somebody go like that it feels awesome I know I did do that when I was a kid yeah I just kind of imagined that's what I was doing with my foot up and like okay all the Bloods getting out of my foot now and um but did you like research whether there's something that accelerates bone healing or you can use magnets like magnets yes some people believe magnets help increase the circulation and thus the the especially a rotating magnet cuz it kind of creates a force field around your foot really yeah supposedly I mean around the magnets but is this like are these legit people or these like these are like theories healers I'm an energy healer well I'm just saying what I've heard

08:26people right so the first time I broke my foot a guy a chiropractor guy I had going to he's like just when you go to sleep is not gonna hurt you just put it on your foot and I was actually competing five weeks after I broke that foot so I don't know if it helped or not but I just sleep and it was near my foot and maybe it helped that take six weeks for a bone to heal right doesn't it protects for weeks and then it takes two more weeks for the calcium to properly fill in so like the if you take an x-ray after four weeks it'll still look like there's a hole like a break there but apparently the bone has sutured itself back but if calcium has not filled in to make it totally strong ah that's what I was told by my doctor on this last one because I asked every question possible why is it still it broke and why is it and he was telling me you know it's not till you

09:19get enough blood flow and then it's healed and then it's once there's the proper blood flow in the bone then you get the calcium coming back and the only thing that I've heard that really supposed to accelerate healing is a hyperbaric chamber did you which I didn't do I had one sort of at hand in Hawaii I could have go into but I didn't oh it's supposed to I know that Uriah Faber used that a lot after he fought Josie Aldo although kicked the out of his leg and his leg was really badly swollen it was horrible no great did he break the bone no it didn't break the bone but it was it was so bad it was like his left leg was literally twice the size yeah I remember opal I've seen the I've seen the fight photo heard you talking there's a photo yeah and in the fight you're talking about look at the color on his leg it was so nasty that was Aldo when used in his prime and he didn't see

10:07those kicks you couldn't see his kicks coming he was just like asked he doesn't even load up I just they're good that's probably right afterwards it must have felt broken it feels horrible just to get hit once man I mean your eyes so tough to just take that over and over and over again like he did yeah well can you check those I mean what it can can you throw into him the problem is when you get hit what just getting hit once by a guy who's really good like a Peter Aerts or someone who's like a really good leg kicker they hit you once and you're not even gonna lift your leg up right well think of a charley horse a guy gives you in school when you're a kid yeah how bad that it's probably ten times that way what happened ten times yeah whatever it is there's Ernesto Hoost is probably one of the greatest layout not probably definitely one of the greatest leg

10:54kickers of all time and there's a video called the perfect leg kick by Ernesto Hoost and it just shows you like a compilation of him landing leg kicks on people and you just see like they're like you see their their their leg buckle and and he would with him he would whip it down like he had this angle he's a yeah he's a long tall guy and his technique was just perfect oh no there's video of him he was so good la watch his left left kick or left kick and then left hooked rather and then the right leg kicked the way he was you're covering up top and you don't might maybe even see it hooked look at this though Bing wow the just the the whip into it he's so good man he was so good yeah and he would always do it left left hook to the body and then right leg kick afterwards Ricardo Arona is a buddy of mine you know Ricardo Ricardo pretty well yeah is he a surfer yeh surf surf but who did he

11:54kick rampage or somebody in the lower leg like I think you're Wanderlei I don't know back in the pride days and I think he killed broke someone's lower leg or something I'm sure yeah he was the victim of the worst slam I've ever seen in my life well he told me he's like I don't know why I didn't grab the leg yeah and the thing I didn't realize because I had watched the fight before and I didn't pick this up I wasn't very well-versed at that time in watching fights but he goes he goes Kelly you know the thing was I put him to sleep in the fight before that and I let him go and hold the ref you sleeping he's sleeping and he goes and then he woke back up and the ref kind of you can when you go watch it and it ref touched him goes okay keep fighting yeah what did he catch him with a triangle or something some kind of a try yeah no it wasn't a triangle it was a

12:40teen or something might have been a guillotine they were on the ground yeah so yeah like or maybe knocked him out I know I think I thought he put him to sleep for something I don't know if it anyways yeah woke up yeah and then kept like oh yeah well pride was crazy yeah they would have let you fight to the death I went to a was at a k1 I watched kitty Yamamoto and inhaler fight oh wow and you know I I had run into a hoist the night before I just saw him in a bar and he's like what's up and I'm like I'm leaving I'm gonna go fly out tomorrow he goes no you got to come to my brother's fight so I went to the fight and then Oyler got knocked out man it was it was hard to watch who did he fight lately could yell monkey yeah that's right that's why there wasn't five yeah he was getting involved in MMA and he really didn't have any striking yeah he was out cold for a couple

13:30minutes I was like did they just offer him a shitload of money like why did he decide to take I don't know I had never met oiler at that time he fought it he fought a bunch of people raba which is really crazy and Sakuraba had him in a Kimura with his arm way behind his back and they stopped the fight rather than let him get his arm broke yeah because he wouldn't happen yeah but he was like mom really flexible like I wasn't going to tap I can I can do that yeah I see some of these Yogi's I follow this guy this yogi guy and I think this guy named gokula Condren or something and he he he puts these poses up and I think if this guy did jiu-jitsu there's no way somebody could tap him out because he he's doing these the craziest I don't know how you put your I've never seen somebody put their body in these contortionist positions and is wonder if somebody who's a real true contortionist

14:23if they knew jiu-jitsu and how to escape things if they could ever really get tell with like arms I'm sure necks or guillotines or whatever but oh there was a guy throw you showing us something there's a guy named Ray who was oh Jesus guy yeah this guy follow this guy yeah he's my god well he does these poses where he's he's balancing on his elbow and he's and then the rest of his bodies in these poses it's insane poses one go above that right there far right Jamie that thing that one when he's on one hand it's amazing that's nuts man yeah this kind of stuff and the strength and the amount of time you got to take to learn these things it's I mean that's some sort of a martial art in itself oh yeah well there's a guy who's a famous jujitsu guy who once said that yoga is a martial art that you do against yourself yeah there's my friend ray is a he was a lead singer of a band

15:24ray capo he was a lead singer of some punk band and then became a yogi hmm yeah and we call me ogre ray and he would come to tenth planet and he would just he could move in ways he likes are you doing man like his his body was so he had so much dexterity and flexibility it was impossible to like hold him in positions yeah he just could move like when your two belts below me but I can't pin you but he was actually a very high-ranking guy he was really good at jujitsu he had this crazy you know and he also had amazing breath work like he never got tired like his cardio is incredible but it was all because of his his breathing techniques yeah hey Chen Hickson would work on a lot of breathing no yeah yeah he was out like I've I've known Hickson quite a long time and he always talks about that you know when you breathe through your nose and how you comb your heart yeah yeah

16:24panic breathing through your mouth is what they would call you know we panic breathe yeah you know most people in their time but he was always about control controlling your breath yeah and going and he was like you know prior to wim doing his thing and becoming sort of well known he would you know Hickson would go sit and colds you know ice cold dreams and just yeah he's real calm through the nose and control the you know yeah that's in that movie choke he's in a glacial River yeah and he's just sitting we're neck-deep yeah and and everybody else just dips their foot and then like this yeah he's like freezing cold water just loving him yeah he's a fascinating guy and he was really the first guy that sort of introduced martial artists to the power of yoga because he was the best that stomach work he can do you know yeah it's like freaky it's very yeah yeah that's that

17:20called fire-breathing or some blamed Breath of Fire there's like a a word for that kind of breathing it's more sometimes you you you'll go to a class and they'll go okay Breath of Fire right that's just like that but yeah his he could pull his stomach in and move it side to side in some weird way he said like he could use every muscle in his body individually yeah like move it independent of other muscles that's a weird one you also love surfing love surfing yeah I've given boards to Hickson for a long time really yeah that's so cool that's amazing how many jiu-jitsu guys love surfing yeah there's endless is it just because of Rio and Rio is like no place yeah it's like it's they all sort of did jujitsu and sort of played soccer and surf they're all on the beach so they're kind of doing this things and some volleyball with their feet whatever you call that thing

18:12right right right what is that lambs are sick it's crazy I posted a video of these guys in Thailand that we're doing that they were playing like volleyball a version of volleyball with their feet yeah it's wild man's like the ultimate hacky sack yeah it's the craziest like the dexterity they have with their feet where they're whacking the ball over there and then the other guy on the other side is whacking it back and it's like they're catching it with their foot oh look at this yeah angles they get yeah I mean the flexibility to and these guys are really close to each other - yeah that's there must be some good fails like kicks in the face I'm sure oh sure there's a lot of that what's it called this is Koreans boom look at that kick oh my god this is sane and then you have to fall in your hands and I hope you don't break your wrists yeah I want added floor like a you know like a mat

19:11on dojo this is pretty impressive stuff but Jamie see if you find that video that I posted on my Instagram page i reposted somebody else post in it and it's bananas cuz these guys are using this like little shitty ball in the jungle yeah and just the ability that they have with their feet is just out of this world you ever hear of a guy named Sir Donald Bratz gosh I mean named Bradman I believe it was he's the best cricket player of all time no that's cricketer of all time so he grew up in Australia kinda outback and he I guess from what I heard there wasn't many people around and he used to play he would take a stick just a random stick and he would hit a ball against a corrugated curved wall mm-hmm corrugated aluminum you know that one of those kind of bended walls and they used for for roofing and so the ball would just bounce off at all these different angles

20:05and hit his hand-eye coordination became like you know as good as you could possibly ever have to it was like his fun thing to do yeah check these guys out look at this crazy I saw you play this yeah look at this and they're hanging and it looks like these perfect shots but they keep firing it back at each other look at that fine it sounds hard it sounds like a coconut or some you know right it sounds like they made it out of like like a rock and some Oh how's that one how's that kick that was a straight-up martial arts yeah there's like a push kick push kick what a roundhouse kick at the same time like a push Crescent kick I mean oh yes in the block if you can get good at doing that I guess it is tie because those are Thai riding but if you could get good at that man I mean there's certain guys that just when you see them in muy Thai they have oh that's what

21:01it's called me see POC takraw it's Burmese okay soccer and volleyball put together yeah those guys would be awesome fighters there's certain guys that have just insane leg dexterity and easy and martial arts like do you know Sanchez ever see Sanchez yeah yeah yeah Sanchez leg kicks would be insane yeah well he's everything he's he's there's a famous highlight reel of him where he throws this like fake knee off the right and then jumping roundhouse kicks this guy in the face and chaos and with his left and it's just the the the ability that he has to place his foot like anywhere he wants his dexterity is just out of the world his range would just be yeah their worldly right yeah well that's I mean just just laughs there's there he is oh yes that's not sunshine no that's a younger guy and he was Sancho I was talking about they were asking about Conor fighting Conor you

21:54ever see that yeah like he probably let it go they kicked me a few times in this trade let's trade a couple well he's so hard to hit to Sancho it's just so elusive why wouldn't someone that came in up in a UFC he doesn't know how to fight the ground I mean that's all it is wouldn't they just pin him with another stand-up guy if they were smart yeah that would be the smart thing to do but I mean I'm not gonna put CM Punk against another ground guy or you CM punk that the whole thing was everybody's like I could do it you know you watch CM Punk you like I'll fight like you are you Sam Punk's probably a lot tougher than the average guy anyway I mean I don't know I don't know fighting but you know even in the average fighter know nothing an average fighter but maybe the average guy in a bar right Ian Punk is a real nice guy and I don't want to say anything bad about him cuz I mean the

22:48guy gave it his all he totally totally dedicated some humble pie and he got totally cool about it he was and he's cool about the first time and he was cool about the second time yeah he's a real good guy but he doesn't have what I would call Talent yeah the skill but he's just moves wrong yes he doesn't see him against the Mickey gall it came and he just went you know over the top and he was probably so nervous to never being in that situation of a real fight mm-hmm I mean he's been in front of crowds but that was a nightmare that Mickey gall fight was so ridiculous Mickey galls good he's really good he's dangerous and to have a guy like CM Punk that doesn't have a back it's not like Brock Lesnar like Brock Lesnar came to the UFC he was an original shield and as a wrestler he's a gorilla as a human being just a freak athlete yeah CM Punk is a regular guy yeah like he's

23:37not there's nothing freaky about him he doesn't have crazy power a weird speed you don't see him and go that guy look super scary right right for a guy his size right well I mean there's guys that don't look like Sancho himself does not look like a freak he sees freaky yeah he's so freaky but when you see him he looks pretty looks like an athlete but he doesn't look like you know it's not like Roy Jones jr. in his prime yeah or something when you see him Jesus so you're this guy he was just I mean he's just so good but a guy like CM Punk he didn't have a background and he tried martial arts when he was like 36 he had no background not really in there even wrestling background he didn't even wrestle hmm it was all theatrical wrestling it was all inert you know we would think though that those guys would even even the theatrical wrestling they would go and

24:25work on the skill like day-in day-out and that's all you have he has a wrestler this is such a difference but you work on the skill day-in day-out and then work on the skill and someone doesn't want you to do it to them yeah that's the thing and then when they're trying to do things to you like just you up yeah and there's nothing you could do about it like yeah in your mouth breathing everything's wrong yeah but I mean I'm sure he made a ton of money and he oh he tested himself the guy I mean give the guy some credit he really did test himself yeah I think it was a good thing for four people Dana and everyone to see two like oh okay we're not gonna do that let's write it's not let's not put someone in that position let's not put ourselves in that position but they were talking about like Logan Paul like Logan Paul fighting the UFC and he was like Logan Paul get

25:12killed Logan Paul is way better way better than CM Punk Logan Paul like actually knows how to fight he had a boxing match with that other you yeah but I was watching him throw punches in that fight I'm like this is a guy who actually knows how to punch like his punches look good he gassed out he got a little tired first real fight like that but he has a background in wrestling and he he actually can punch like I was watching him punch this guy I was like that's a guy who actually knows how to throw punches you know he knows how to he knows distance and timing he knows how to connect me he doesn't look like Canelo Alvarez or anything crazy but he looks like a guy who can actually punch more you can give him a break on them but Dana's like you know have him fight in UFC would be he would get killed like you had CM Punk fight this guy is way better than him

26:00he really has a background in fighting how does that dynamic work with you and Dana where you know with something like that that that could be seen if somebody's a little triggered or a little sensitive they might get a little bit like angry at you saying something like that yeah Dana's nothing easiest-going guy ever with that kind of is no he would me and him have been friends for like almost 20 years we've been friends for a long time and I've been working for the UFC I mean I started working for they all company in 97 hmm I started working yeah and then the new company I started working for them in 2002 and I was friends with Dana before that mmm it's just he he knows my heart's in the right place but he also knows that if I wasn't honest nobody would listen to me yeah that's a thing I enjoy watching the fights and listen to your you're critical in a fair way with people I

26:58think right yeah when you when you critique what somebody's doing it's like if they listen the right way it's probably gonna help them well I definitely don't say things that if I don't know what I'm talking about and I don't say things that I don't mean yeah you know but if I see something and I've watched I mean I've called at least a thousand fights I don't know how many fights I know or probably more yeah and I've seen some of the greatest fights of all time up live in close right right next to the cage you know I've seen a lot of so if I'm saying something it's probably because it's right or I mean it yeah but if I don't know what I'm talking about it's one of the good things about having Daniel Cormier there or Dominick Cruz you know if there's some aspect of fighting that maybe I'm not exactly sure about I can defer to them yeah and I could say like

27:46what what's so important about getting the underhook here you know and then Cormier could go off about like why this and then you go oh okay I get that okay so yeah that was a big thing in the fight with steep a Miocic and Daniel Cormier Dominick Cruz was explaining how important it was that Cormier kept pummeling he kept shifting positions and pummeling for under hooks and that was one of the reasons why I was able to land that big right hand he was never static he also had me wear some to get in there too didn't ya I mean he was like writing steam in space and she's like I mean that was such a great match even though obviously it didn't last very long but yeah I mean he he took a few on the chin real hard to get in there and for Steve Bay that's got to drive him crazy he has been tweeting a lot why wouldn't he get a straight read a rematch straight away I

28:33mean there is even supposedly talking McGregor gonna rematch when he got pretty much handled everywhere I don't think this real talk of McGregor getting a rematch I think the real smart money is on Tony Ferguson fighting khabib next I think Dane has been saying that I i 100% believe that Tony Ferguson desert I don't think Tony Ferguson should have ever been stripped I think he should still be the interim champion I mean the guy fell while he was doing press and tore his knee apart six months later comes back and destroys Anthony Pettis and a spectacular performer that's fight Oh Pettis was great - yeah it was Tony's just Tony's just a warrior I mean he's cardio never runs out he throws weird stuff with everything you can throw you don't know parently got upset that we called him a weirdo like I guess he's sensitive apparently got upset I said he was a brilliant

29:25weirdo like when he was on his way to the cage but I meant that a hundred percent entry wears ankle weights at the weigh-ins yeah like I don't even know what I mean he uses a Wing Chun dummy he sets up his all's camp like his training equipment he sets it up himself he puts the mats down he builds his own like heavy bag hangers he puts he puts up like chin-up bars all that she does it himself he's like it's unfamiliar to the average training regimen yes I'm in a complementary I'm a huge fan of that guy I am awesome I also think that he is the toughest test for could be because of his cardio and because of his versatility because he could fight really well off his back I mean he submitted Kevin Lee off his back to win the title yeah he's got a fantastic Darce choke and his ability to hold guys in his guard and recover if he gets clipped I mean he's he's the most

30:18dangerous guy at lightweight for khabib I think in my opinion yeah he just never gets tired it doesn't even make sense yeah and Eddie you know Eddie trains him he's one of Eddie's students Eddie says he's never seen anything like this and this guy work out six hours a day full clip everybody else is exhausted he keeps going there doing sprints up the hill Tony laps everybody keeps going his cardio is off the chart he I wonder if that's a Mexican thing too I think there's a lot of Mexicans that have amazing cardio everything is right I don't know what it is man I mean if it's a running thing for sure but I mean if you go back to like a maca I think I mean gilbert melendez said that once to that it's a Mexican thing this cardio because Gilbert's always been known for his crazy cardio I really wonder if there's like certain ethnicities that have an advantage or at least a better starting

31:11point and then it's all hard work from there yeah the most maybe there's some genetic thing you can prove from the way the blood holds off Diego Sanchez he's another one insane cardio yeah I mean I don't know I mean it's it's a it's a fun thing to think about I mean you go like you go back to boxing in particular mean how many great boxers had fantastic cardio from Mexico you know Chavez in particular Julio Cesar Chavez would just wear guys down the volume of his punching you just never stop just constantly on you constantly moving forward bobbing and weaving and throwing shots and sometimes as an athlete like if you're a boxer you'd have to even if you didn't have that you'd have to dig deep and pretend you had that you know what I mean that starts wearing another guy like this guys never pressure and stop you know like I had a I had a situation once I

32:02was super winded I was really tired you know in a heat surfing as a guy in Tahiti and this this he ended up sort of being like a world title heat for me and I was losing with like two minutes ago and I ended up in this paddle battle against a guy and he's good paddler and pretty fit guy and we're like head to head and what happens week whoever gets back out first deemed by the judges gets a priority over the next wave they can have whatever the way they want and with two minutes three minutes left and a heat surfing there's that's not a lot of time to get a wave if if the wave comes you got to be the guy it has priority for it and we're paddling and I could feel him just for half a second kind of lit up on his paddle like okay I'm getting ahead on this guy and as soon as you did I paddle harder and I was like I you know to show him like I got more and

32:48he gave up and I got it and then I got then I needed like a lot you know we score out of 10 points and I needed like a nine I got like a nine point four with thirty seconds ago or something it was just but it was I didn't have that in me like physically I was like I want to quit too you know I was like I got a poker face this guy may think I got more you know and I I really didn't it was just that choice like I don't care I'm gonna get out there with the lungs burn you know feel bad for 30 seconds whatever yeah you know but sometimes you I would imagine boxers prep tribe or MMA guys for sure sometimes you can't Bluff that but right sometimes you can't Bluff it but yeah for sure it does come up where there's an edge one way or the other that's a big thing with Ferguson that pressure that he puts on guys yeah he just never gets slow you know if you watch the Gustafson john jones fight

33:37- John late in that fight did you know there could've been some doubt and some people whose win in that fight or whatever was close fight but look like John just started pouring it he was three to one you know strikes in the last couple rounds yeah the last rounds won him that fight and by all accounts John wasn't in shape by all accounts John really didn't train for that fight and didn't take Custis and seriously and got a half-assed his training camp and still pulled it off in the championship rounds that guys I mean and they're gonna rematch that's right yeah that's January yep the December card it's January New Year's Eve you know basically I think it's the December 29 fantastic fight and cuz I think Gustafson's way better now you see when Gustafson knocked out clover to share I mean he just looked like there was like a video game controversial yeah so I think that fight

34:27is that's that's gonna be one for the ages and then for John to be his comeback fight and forgot stuff sin to be the rematch he's asking for forever and it will be for the light heavyweight title they're gonna strip Cormier are they gonna fight yeah I mean he's gonna he's fighting Derrick Lewis in December a weird fight well Brandon he's number two actually I mean it's if you look at the rankings it's not if you look at Derek Lewis is obviously unorthodox but he was just getting mauled in that last fight it doesn't matter what anyway I guess then man I'm gonna get that last punch in well it's still the power that he has and I would burn with his finger you know why I mean why am I even talking about man I mean he really was the number-two contender headed into that fight and then wins I think that guy was the dark horse of the division yeah and so for him to knock all

35:18Alexander like that I mean that's a jet was a giant knockout yeah and to get his ass kicked for three rounds respect too - Alexander though yeah for for staying in the pocket fighting out with 30 seconds to go when he's clearly winning that flavor well he got hurt he got hurt a couple times in that fight did he did yeah yeah there was one time where he lost his mouthpiece and he tried to give it to Derek yeah I think he was on queer Street I don't think he knew what the flat was going on cuz Derek hit so hard you don't get knocked out you're probably like Oh even a glancing blow right hey what in the I mean think about the way he knocked out Travis Browne the way he knocked out Gonzaga and Derek would be even better if you didn't have a bad back Derek's got a fucked-up back so why does he want it that's three fights in six months or one last fight with an gone oh well he

36:08fought in Ghana and that was the fight where this is like what the that was barely a fight it was like five punches thrown the weird as a fan watching it I feel like c1 against an gone oh boy yeah yeah well I as a fan I did you feel like that was more on igano than it was on Derek yeah I don't know I always felt that way well in Ghana didn't do anything and Derek won you know you win by much but I mean he was basically waiting for in Ghana you know you gotta be careful with in Ghana cuz in Ghana punches so hard but steep a that dude's head up yeah he really did steep a just his head up yeah hey yeah that was he was even talking about in Ghana anymore that's what's weird and got it before the Steep a fight everybody's like this is a session I'm excited for that oh my god when he knocked Alistair Overeem into another dimension everybody was like holy yeah that was that was like

37:03that looked like a career-ending punch the dad was like I'll break your neck with this yeah meanwhile over he was ready to fight again didn't he fight again after that against Curtis blades I feel like he did I feel like you fought Curtis blades after that and lost hmm and got stopped and not fight - yeah I mean look in Ghana hits hard yeah like harder than anybody's ever fought I mean he's but not when he's mouth-breathing in the fifth round it didn't matter because he gassed himself out in the first he really wasn't prepared for a full game you really didn't think was gonna go the ground from what I heard I thought I don't touch this guy that's whatever I think he thought he hit so hard that steep it was gonna be in front of him he's gonna hit Steve Bay he's gonna be the heavyweight champ I was gonna ask you do you do you have your absolute dream job but or like I mean you do a

37:48few things but like you you get to talk UFC you're a black belt under Eddie right yeah and so like you've kind of found the perfect job for job I can tell when you're talking about you just love it so much like I love surfing you know I just I live eat and breathe surf every day I wake up and the first thing I do is look at where's the waves in the world where do you think when you retire you'll do commentary maybe a little bit you know maybe a little bit but I don't want to I don't really want a job whenever you know I've been look I've been I've been on an Pro Tour pretty much since I was 19 and 46 I took about three years off but I would still compete a little bit those years what is it what's the high end of the age limit in terms of like words I can really compete right now no one's ever been my age on tour really ya know I think the next oldest Grand Tour

38:37is 38 and he's retiring this year Wow when I've got on tour that oldest guy was 28 years old holy yeah it was like there was a real you know that I would send in the 80s there wasn't like it didn't look like you could make some money and if you were top five guy but it didn't look like you could have like this crazy career so guys weren't thinking longevity they're like let's go have a freakin good time right travel around the world and get paid for it for a few years and then we'll figure out a job after or maybe we'll have enough money to kind of live real humbly what is the difference between how you prepare and other guys is it your diet strength and conditioning like what is it um I don't overexert myself very much so my my training aside from surfing isn't a lot I retain I feel like I retain enough strength to be good at what I need to so burn yourself I don't

39:25burn myself out you know because like the oldest people in the world weren't athletes you know they're kind of people who didn't burn themselves out - right so I my theory on Ligeti is like don't overdo it I don't need to necessarily be over trained for what I do a lot of the skill a lot of the the winning that I do competitively is from a skill it's not so much from being super strong having crazy cardio it's making a choice about which wave how I'm gonna approach and ride that wave and I have to get two scores every 30 minutes when I compete so it's like I got this 30 minute window I need you ready for I don't need to be like in crazy crazy shape because so what is it that held other guys back in the past I I think there's a number of factors I think you have to naturally be really competitive like in your when you were born in your home somehow you had to maybe you needed

40:16something to prove you know I I was kind of like you know growing up I sort of looked back at it got a laugh like I maybe I couldn't get the girl I liked because she liked an older guy or you know I didn't have we didn't really have any money in my family so I wanted to make some money I had an older brother who kind of picked on me but I hung out with him and played football with his friends that were all three years older than me so I had to be strong you know I had to be tough and fast I had to be smart that's the case with a lot of guys older brothers you know the brothers that they couldn't really compete with like this and so every night I would just eat away at yeah yeah I think it I think it did and there was always that you know my brother and I have I think we have pretty good relationship now and I don't think he would disagree with me that we kind of

40:58dingy along for 20 years or more but you know from time we were teenagers we kind of grew apart you know I I sort of started doing real well competing on the world stage and he's sort of stagnated and we just you know people and families have different dynamics you know each child has a different dynamic whether the first and I'm in the middle of three all boys our younger brother was three six years younger than me so he was kind of out of the loop when were teenagers he's still a little kid so we were really competing with him but he saw us competing against each other and maybe a few ways and it kind of turned him off to surfing so he didn't start surf until he was a teenager and when he did he rode long boards and we all were both short boarders like you know more competition kind of guys and he loved kind of the old throwback the 60s and 70s surfers on

41:53long boards or on single fins which is like not a modern board at all and why would someone choose one or the other long boards are short board yeah it's a it's a real different skill long boards are kind of easier to just get up and ride a wave but the the skill you have on a long board is more it's it's more ballet than it is gym or something you know it's not like big maneuvers it's more like gliding on the wave looking like you're not trying hard it's it's more of a dance if you will then it is like some kind of an athletic skill and you know short boarding is just you know you're going for aerials and lots of different sort of fast maneuvers really riding in the pocket of the wave whereas longboarding you're looking for a different kind of you you write a different kind of wave altogether you really don't most of the waves we ride for modern short boarding and competition aren't

42:45waves you would ride on a longboard because they're too hollow they're too quick and fast and you can't fit a longboard in the same way so your brother just kind of took it up more for the fun of it and yank of it he literally was at the beach one day his story he was about 14 or 15 and we always try to get him to surf and when he was about eight or ten I took him surfing one day at our local break at Sebastian in Florida and and I pushed him on this wave and he he ate it was underwater a long time it kind of freaked him out not a long time een a long time for an eight year old like maybe 10 seconds or eight seconds you know when you're out of breath little freaky like you don't know which way is up and he kind of quit surfing and then when he was like 14 or 15 he's at the beach and this guy he he really respected this kind of older guys like hey I'm gonna run somewhere we watch my board

43:30he had a longboard and he said we watched my board and Stephen said oh yeah watch it and the guy said you can go use it if you want he paddle out and caught a few waves and he just sort of fell in love with that minute with surfing and it was something unique for him because we didn't longboard so it was like it was that beach life and thing we loved but it was different you know right he got his own thing yeah yeah and then me and my brother we you know I got more and more into competition and getting sponsored and stuff and he sort of he he just kind of started fading out of doing competition full-time and stuff and and and then you when I was a teenager when I was in a freshman in high school this guy moved into town this kid named drew and he had sort of got kicked out of a couple schools elsewhere and I got himself in some trouble and when it came to came over to the beach

44:22he was kind of in these inland schools but he was good at football got a baseball he was kind of a really good athlete he became the quarterback on our football team he was a baseball player all this kind of stuff so he was he was a total jock not a surfer at all and somehow he and I became best buddies and you know I like I liked all the sports I grew up playing football basketball baseball a little bit tennis and and he and I ultimately where we got to was he sort of became my big brother competitively and we used to battle and it didn't matter whose feelings got hurt you know like we competed it absolutely everything from horseshoes - bowling - pool on my birthday every year on my birthday we made it a pact where we'd go play every kind of game we could possibly and we keep a tally of who won what it was mini it was putt-putt golf it was go-karts it was basketball it was

45:14shuffleboard it was like literally everything air hot you know everything we could think of and we just keep a tally and we used to bet in the millions of dollars real yeah well yeah of course we saw you know at some point somebody owed somebody hundreds of millions of dollars no of course I mean when it came down to like actual money and then it was like five bucks you know and at one point he he was uh he got really into horseshoes and he called me out one day he's like you meet me at the beach we're gonna play some horseshoes I'm like all right I'm like but I'm not playing you unless we're betting some money like some real money he's like all right bring some money and at the end of day he ended up owing me about 160 bucks he's like you tell my wife I owe you I'll kill you and I'll never pay you I don't have the money I can't pay you that he's like so I'll pay you

46:05like 20 bucks here and there as we go but drew used to he beat me at everything he was better than me at basically everything and so it was like that a ping-pong - on my 18th birthday that I like to call it the night of upsets because it was a night that Mike Tyson lost the Buster Douglas and it was it was the night of February 10th my birthday's in 11 on the 11th but they were in Tokyo so they were on the 11th fighting Tyson lost Giroux shows up in my house with a ping-pong table and he says it was like my birthday gifts all my friends bought me this ping-pong table my mom my three buddies and drew beat me 17 straight games in a row and I started crying and I think he ended up letting me finally win the last game so we could go to bed it was like 2:00 in the morning and man I've never been I've really honestly never been so frustrated and just outright beaten by somebody at

47:00anything and he just owned I just knew he owned me and he would just tell me where he's gonna hit the ball on the table and beat me ping-pong is a serious skill so that are really good at it oh follow you should go on pong Finity on Instagram and watch these things you guys do it out of hand I'm scared yeah ping-pong is one of those games where I was like if I ever got into that I think it would like eat your life yeah it seems like there's a night yeah you know we sucked you thought we were pretty good you know weed weed uh you know use soap and water that make our or paddles a little stickier you know we thought we had all this spin and stuff guys are playing three-way that's crazy I mean that's not a kind of three-way you like it's a stream and they're smashing and they're and they're just smashing the ball and it this is crazy and oh whoa behind-the-back and is there

47:53money in ping-pong I don't know I would think there are four you know in China or something right I don't think in the states there really is but that's the same thing with pool now but I don't know I don't see some white guy going to China and beating all those guys you seen these guys are masters they don't move you know they just their wrist moves correct there's no dancing you know yeah it seems like one of those sports where there's just there's a whole a whole world out there that you're not aware of of like elite killer ping-pong players yeah like most people aren't even thinking about it ya know we could talk about ping-pong and it's like everyone can kind of join in like if I ever talked about fighting people or shut your ass man you stay in your lane but you know it's like I'm a fan of ping-pong - I'll talk about ping-pong that's a funny thing that stay in your

48:39lane thing like you know how to have an opinion on things yeah yeah so then why can we vote you know about somebody's gonna handle everything you know why are we allowed to can we only just vote about something that has to do with surfing or bullfighting is a weird one like people want you happen for for some people like you have to know how to fight to be able to talk about fighting yeah they get real serious about that like you hear that about journalists like look at this guy probably never train to Dana's life you know they look at a guy and he's fat or tiny or whatever and they just don't want to listen to anything that they say but meanwhile they could be an expert yeah I mean fight right Nelson yeah but it's when I was a kid I trained with don the dragon Wilson how did you really I did for about a year I got to spar him once did you it was awesome

49:26yeah so to me it was like I'm such a fan of that guy he was totally ambidextrous Whitney oh yeah he could fight any style and he mean he also had that weird sideways stance yeah you know he had like kick boxing skills boxing skills Muay Thai skills but he also had like a traditional karate and Kung Fu background so he'd stand sideways on you and you didn't know what's coming at you then right yeah now he was awesome and I remember when he fought Dennis Alexei Oh Dennis Alexia yeah like he moved to the west side of Oahu and I was like all the news back and then they're like yeah and he Alexio up with leg kicks he was like one of the first guys that punished Alexia with leg kicks he did a thing on YouTube about defense defense for self defense for women and they were saying like yeah you know he's part of this group and he they talked about like you know if you're gonna teach a woman

50:14something kick in the kick the leg because that's the biggest target you know some bad advice before jujitsu you pick the balls yeah but your legs carry you around I mean that's the thing about a woman if a woman weighs 135 pounds she's walking around with 135 pounds carrying it like how how long could you walk in your hands yeah I mean I heard that bra close you can walk in his hands like a mile just come here yeah really he's a freak like a legitimate Ivry he walks in his hands all around the gym yeah he do it he should do a video like walking up the stairs I had a buddy a surf buddy from from Santa Cruz he unfortunately passed away ganya Barney a good friend of all of ours and he used to do these surf video clips and he would walk downstairs and then walk upstairs and he did he could literally just walk anywhere on his hands it was so cool to see well I

51:04mean I guess he would build it it's all about how often you use it right you use your legs constantly don't use your arms constantly but if you did and you built up over years of time I'd imagine I mean there's obviously this quick - you know I mean I started doing hand actually right before I broke my foot I started when I was a kid I used to be able to pretty much walk endless on my hands you walk on your hands while your foot was broken no but out that week I was like you know what when I was a kid I could walk for minutes at a time on my hands I'm gonna get back into that so I started training that week like I just started doing handstands every day with my friends though you broke your foot right the week I broke my foot like for the two weeks before I broke my foot and I started like quickly I could feel the skill coming back you know I mean I probably should have kept with it

51:47because then I could have walked around for a while kept my foot high right but no but I mean my point is that like pretty quickly your body starts to attune to that thing like I used to do push-ups on the back of my wrist this buddy of mine who was into some martial arts he's like do risk push-ups and well what's the benefit of that he was just saying to strengthen your wrist I don't know he used to do it but the first time I did it it really hurt my wrist and then after about a week of doing it didn't hurt my wrist anymore your body just kind of adjust - yeah but I don't know I think I'm gonna start doing handstands and doing that Burmese volleyball thing how long did it take I mean we--you on crutches or you in a wheelchair like how long did it take before you could actually walk I have to broke your foot where I was walking little too soon oh yeah yeah how long I

52:33didn't I didn't break it I didn't displace the bones any but I mean I actually rode I wrote a couple waves like six weeks later No yeah why would you do that well because we built this wave like a up in your Fresno we built a man-made wave and those a good way to learn yeah I think well yeah they can be I mean it depends on how long the wave laughs and what size wave and how fast and all that kind of thing but our waves pretty easy to learn on but it r-wave lasts on the low speed for a beginner it lasts like over a minute long now it seems to me that that would be a great way to like just get your feet wet yeah no comment you should come up is that it right there yeah but that's not the like the that's the high center yeah this was and this was actually where is that like is that it's like 40 minutes outside area yeah it's a big it used to be a ski lake so it's long narrow Lake

53:25oh wow that is crazy yeah that's all man-made this is man-made that's so weird this isn't a newest version of it if you were to Google if you were to search like there was a contest called we had a couple of contests we had one called the surf ranch Pro about six weeks ago and that's we changed the wave since then and we remodeled and we had to rebuild it but anyways the reason I surfed was because we were having the first competition at this wave and I wanted to ride the first wave like oh I didn't want gonna compete I just like symbolically I wanted to ride the wave at the thing so how does this work what's making that wave this is a oil a wave foil I could in the back it looks sometimes you'll see in the back behind the wave not there but to the left side more you would see this thing it's a it's basically a super inefficient boat hull and it pushes through the water and

54:22so it's pushing water instead of planing on the water like you would want a boat to so it's pushing all the water sideways and it's it's just this foil shape it's almost like the shape of a fin or a wing straight up and down in the water it's that blue thing in the back and it rides it's like a roller coaster and it gets pulled on a pulley system with a four thousand horsepower engine there's two of them actually you didn't want to go either direction so you see it's now they got their back to the wave when they're riding but their first few ways I showed you this is Stephanie Gilmore she's like six time world champ this is that's me obviously this was just about six weeks ago in September and so yeah I mean I I designed the technology with a scientist and then design the actual brief bottom or concrete bottom that makes the wave break yeah because this seems way more

55:15advanced than the ones that I've seen yeah this is it's a really advanced wave it's actually longer than it needs to be also because at a fast speed the wave still like 45 seconds and your legs are fried this is Felipe Toledo who's number two in the world right now he's unbelievable that's pretty fast great surfer where is he from Brazil a lot of surfers come from Brazil all the new good guys are from Brazil it's like the flight Li fight game you know this is a Gabriel Medina guy's incredible he's he's unbelievable whoa and he's a balance that's great let's go to shove it yeah and I think that was a corrupt flip he did super high-tech moves but he Gabriel Medina's one time world champ from a few years ago but I thought he was you know I thought he was just going to win year after year after year after his first title I don't know if it got complacent

56:08or what happened I don't know how they judge like how do they judge like it's it's a subjective yeah that's the probably the tough thing for our sport but I mean gymnastics is subjective ice skating you know that kind of thing so it's not it's not too different it's not too dissimilar that so you know the judges are all good surfers relatively good surfers maybe not X pros but you know guys who know what is possible on a wave and there it's pretty easy for them to compare apples to oranges a different person's skills over the other one but it would be interesting in UFC you know if if you had judges subjectively judging not not necessarily like who won the round or looking at strikeouts but like whose style did I like how fast and how much power did he have how did he link is you know strikes together a subjective element to it but unfortunately unlike surfing the UFC's

57:01not comport the judges they're not it's not comprised of former fighters or more people that really know a lot which is which is wrong awful it's totally wrong it's awful I mean some some surfers really believe that the judges should just be X pros that were tor level guys that make those calls seems like there's enough of those guys out there there are there may be but you know getting back to why that kind of leads me back to like you asked why guys didn't have the longevity look people get married have kids have a life back home all that kind of stuff so you know I was sort of I went a knock the traditional route with all that stuff so I had a lot more time focused dedication into what I was doing and I wanted to do it for a long time because I just love surfing and I mean if I had my druthers every day I'm gonna wake up and go ride waves now is there a point

57:52system with this koron like yep out of ten out of ten I still like boxing not everybody gets a nine if they lose that battle you know it's um ten is the max tens max but I mean more average you're seeing threes and fours then you are eight two nines because you know it's just a certain wave and a certain skill set get you up to that excellent category so we consider eight and up excellent and you know sort of six five to eight is like really good and there's there a lot of just debate about whether or not a nine is is is accurate for someone's ride yeah yeah there is well if if it's early there's a lot to it you know that like if it's early in a heat and a guy gets a nine or girl gets a nine and then you think that there's a lot more that could have been done either on that day in those types of waves and we're on that wave specifically like some occasionally

58:49you see somebody get ten perfect right as good as you can possibly do it's the ultimate you should remember that way forever kind of thing you know it's like the perfect knockout but then then won't right they'll kick off the wave when there's more to ride or they'll fall and they still get a ten so like sometimes you'll see somebody get a really good score and you know a lot more could have been done they could have been deeper in that tube they could have been higher in that air they could have rotated they could have you know more they could in there they could have written out like smoother they could have linked a couple different more difficult turns together added more variety so you you have to kind of like if anything scaled down I think as a judge as opposed to scale up because then you if if you're surfing in really great waves which makes it easier

59:32to get a good score so like Teahupoo in Tahiti if you if you pull up Tahiti Teahupoo te ahu p oo contest 2014 so we had really unbelievable waves in this contest almost every wave look I could be a 10 then it comes down to like how late did you drop in how critical was that how deep were you how did you maximize your time in there by slowing your speed how much risk did you take so even though the wave only lasts about five seconds there's a whole lot that can be condensed into that five seconds and did you wait for one of the biggest waves or did you take a smaller wave and take and go you know a little bit easier what is it like when one of those giant tubes crashes down on top of you yeah so this gave Madinah he end up winning the contest it's not super fun when you eat it you could imagine it I mean you've probably talked to Shane that's me actually

60:31yeah I've talked to Shane about it yeah and I mean look Shane no one's more of an authority than Shane is maybe not in this super hollow crazy stuff I mean whatever Shane rides everything but the biggest waves in the world change the authority like he's had wipeouts that he came close to dying he probably talked about the vest he created because of that he almost drowned he created a vest that you pull the co2 cartridge and it blasts you know this big bladder and lifts you to the surface even if you get knocked out or taking water somebody's gonna find you and probably save you but yeah this is that's me there so I didn't make that but that wasn't even a big one you're not for that day that was a small wave huge though when that's coming down to see where I'm at I'm coming in blue water right so I was able to dive and kind of get under and not get sucked

61:17back over so there's a little bit of a skill that goes with wiping out so you understand that energy it's you know it's like a it's like a tornado or like a hurricane the my wall is the worst but your fear in the center you're fine mm-hmm you know I always I've always wondered like could you follow a hurricane inside the center of the eye like could you just stay with it and be okay but you could if you moved at a really slow speed right they don't move that villain is about 10 to 20 miles an hour right sometimes you last kind of plane go that slow no but maybe you could stage a car right behind a flight now find a really good GPS system you gotta go northeast yeah okay gonna have to go off-road yeah or you'll die but so that energy all that Energy's in where the lip where the you know if you're in the center that you're pretty safe but as soon get sucked in right into the wall that

62:05and you get pitched in the limb that's when the lip spreads the water that it hits and it sends you right down to the reef especially in a place like this where it's when you see a way that's real hollow it's generally a lot shallower than it is high so the wave will be 15 feet and the way water might only be 5 or 6 feet deep so think of all that energy it's gonna hit most of it's gonna hit the reef at some point so that's the you want to you want to try to kind of fall like where that lips landing and then escape under it into blue water what do you do if you know you're gonna hit a reef you kind of just brace you don't want to hit your head you for the most part you can tell up and down I mean sometimes you lose your equilibrium a little bit underwater but for the most part you can tell what is up and down so you can feel it coming in I mean I'm gonna put my arms there

62:51before I take it on my head right of course and so I'm I'm like trying to be like a cat like when I hit I want to be able to I'll break my hands or feet or whatever you know I'm not worried about that I don't want to get knocked out right so I think everyone default is to try to cover your head you know if you hit anywhere else you're kind of okay you just don't wanna hit your head and when the waves come crashing down on you do you lose your sense of up and down you can yeah but you know you you also have your board connected from the leash and that's usually that's generally gonna pull up mm-hmm so you kind of know if you don't feel your board pulling you're kind of worried like my board might hit me might spear me underwater you know Brian you can occasionally get speared in the face with your board or a fin or something that's kind of spooky I was

63:39surfing with a guy who was like a big brother I should travel with Tom Carol he's a two-time world champion we were surfing Tahiti one time together and he used to wear a helmet a lot of guys don't work most people don't wear a helmet but Tommy still wear a helmet he was real really used to it but having something you know an extra se inch around your head or half-inch it's like it changes your judgment a little so you got to be used to it I always felt like it was weird it it's weird for sparring too yeah it with your peripheral vision yeah yeah so it would mess with me when I tried to worm in that extra weight and like when we're trying to on a critical way of we're trying to pull in the barrel we're we are dealing with inches you know percentages of inches like just tuck in your head and so you got a you got to kind of be really aware of your range and your your

64:22ability to like tuck your head at certain places and I was never comfortable with her but I served with Tom and he wiped out and his board speared him in the ear and it broke it broke the helmet and broke his eardrum Jesus so we were just wondering like what the hell would have happened if he didn't have his helmet on you know like probably would have killed him you know what I definitely knocked him out and we didn't have a jet to you with us that day or anything we were you know 500 yards or more off the beach off mile off the beach somewhere at this reason blow out your eardrum like that do you have to get it surgically repaired no I I don't think so I think I've never you know up I almost busted my eardrum like six weeks ago in Hawaii just free diving I felt it like like a pain holding I could feel it like going and I kind of got dizzy and I just

65:07came up and stopped diving but um there was a guy I got a buddy named Greg long he's he has drowned and he's been attacked by a shark not too many people can say those things Wow in his life um how do you get saved when he drowned uh that's a really crazy story but I let's talk about one sec but he did break his eardrum at Mavericks up in Northern California and he just you just flounder you don't know what you think your swim in one direction you're it's like you know yeah it's like your boats turn in and you don't know which there's no rudder you know and you don't know what's up and down and you you know you think you're swimming up and you're going sideways and it's really dangerous there was a there's a guy in Hawaii a couple years ago that drone surfing in outer reef he and a friend of mine caught a wave and this guy wiped out he didn't have all he had one with surf

65:57trunks and generally will wear like even a wetsuit which is just thin but it keeps you warm and even that's enough flotation to where if you got knocked out you'd probably come to the surface so this guy wiped out his leash broke so he lost his board and then we think you know the guys who were out there think that he popped his eardrum because they said they saw him hit the surface and start like his feet were coming up and his hand was coming up and you know he was kind of just floundering around and then the next wave hit and they never saw him again but he was only in surf drunk so they didn't ever find the body because he didn't float up but if he just had even just a wetsuit just some debris ever found the bomb didn't find him the waves were huge it was you know it was like 40 50 foot whatever but it was really unfortunate it was a rule those things are really like sobering in

66:45the surf community because we all know each other and um and you know ultimately you're doing this for fun and you know it's it's it's a heavy thing but it's crazy that your eardrum affects you that much yeah I mean I've seen I've seen people that have inner ear infections and they'll get dizzy walking and you know just don't know what they're doing while they're one front in front of the other they want to fall sideways he's very strange yeah well so Greg Greg long he'd drown actually at a place called Cortes bank which is about 120 miles off the coast of Dana Point it's just a wreath at the top of a mountain on an island that never hit the surface and it was discovered when I think it was a nuclear ship actually grounded itself on that reef back 30 years ago or something and caused a lot of caused tens of millions of dollars of damage to this ship Navy ship and you

67:39know I don't know if they had sounded the bottom by then and it they must not have known it was there but anyways this wave breaks when it's really big and um Shane's been out there Shane was actually I'm I think Shane was out there this day not positive but I'm pretty sure Shane was out during this session there's about 15 guys out dozen guys out and uh Greg took off on a wave and somebody was in front of him on the wave which kind of changed his angle a little bit but he I don't think he would have made the wave anyhow but it just put him in a little bit of a precarious situation and he ate it and was down a long time this wave has just so much energy in it because there's nothing between where the wave started and this break like it's thousands and thousands of feet deep that you know over the whole Pacific so there's no continental shelf to slow the wave down you know if

68:30you can imagine the East Coast we have small waves a big part of that part of that's because most of the storms go west to east and they don't come towards us but even on a hurricane our surfs not that big because we have a continental shelf that goes you know you go out uh-huh you can go out 20 miles and it's 70 feet deep some places so the swells just drag in the Pacific they don't drag there's just nothing to get in away so these walls are going 35 miles an hour when they hit so it's a lot faster than a normal wave so there's all this energy in the wave and so when Greg went down this wave is probably you know 40-foot face or whatever 50-foot face he was underwater and he's really calm he's you know he's probably as as ready for anybody in big surf he's totally prepared he's done all the CPR and breathing courses and everything and he was real calm and he said he pulled his

69:17vest and it didn't work and then he pulled another one in it didn't work and he pulled it a third time and it didn't work and so he was like oh I'm screwed you know that kind of thing but he at that point you're when you start to pull it you're already in a little bit of a sum some guys pull it right away just to be safe on a big wave but some guys kind of wait and go I'll see if I'm able to pull this one off and I'll save my little canister because you only have like some of the vests have two or two canisters some have four so you don't have to go change your canisters over so if you're thinking gonna make that you're gonna get back to the surface or you're okay you can handle it you got a good breath you're like I'll just I won't pull it but he pulled three times and then he blacked out and they luckily had really good water safety crew and I don't know that

70:06it was his brother that saved him but a couple of guys went and grabbed Dovan and pulled him up by the leash Wow luckily he was to the leash because he wasn't floating because he didn't have the co2 and then he had taken a lot of water and uh they had to airlift him off the boat in high in big seas that night after dark Wow and got him back to the mainland so did they do CPR on him they did CPR yeah and then he come back to consciousness came back to consciousness yeah but he was yeah but guys gonna have secondary drowning we stuff water in the lungs and you're not like aware of the symptoms I'll get it out I don't they put it off it out yeah you can't just like hang by your ankles or anything yeah I think they pump it out I was with a buddy in Australia a year and a half ago and and he almost drowned got knocked out his board hit him in the chin knocked him out cold

70:57and uh I was I was sitting out the back waiting for a wave and I heard everyone kind of I heard another friend screaming luckily the waves kind of stopped and they were able to get to him pull him up on a jetski and he had taken in some water and he's puking and coughing and all the stuff and I came up from behind and I didn't see his neck and I heard one of the guys say oh he got his board hit him in the neck and in the throat and so I was expecting this artery to be cut or like the throat to be open like I was like okay I don't want to look yet you know right because I was behind him I didn't want to get hurt go around him and try and look I'm like okay let's get him into the beach luckily we had a jet ski because we were about a mile offshore and um I just I held on the jet ski and kind of I just squeezed on behind it we have a sled on the back of

71:45the jet ski like a body big giant body board with handles so I just kind of straddled him my other friend rode the ski all the way up on the beach and then I thought okay when we get the beach I'm gonna have to see this gonna be gory but luckily he wasn't opened up he just had a huge hematoma here on his neck and he it didn't slice him it's just like contusion like mm blunt-force that's very lucky yeah but he spent two or three days in the hospital because they were worried about secondary drowning which I don't exactly know what secondary drowning means but I guess when you have water salt water in your lungs it can I don't know maybe from the way you laid down or I don't know I should cry beats super school yeah you must see a lot of crazy in the water like I've seen some crazy stuff yeah yeah wildlife and I mean you must see an amazing amount of fish and the

72:36shark topics super it never ends you know like I mean anyone in the world I meet is like sharks tell me when that story doesn't ever end that story like it's a primal fear like getting eaten by a monster you know you feel so vulnerable in the water I mean maybe you feel less vulnerable because you're so bored you have a board you know so quick with the board but like some of them know you you are totally vulnerable if a great white wants you oh yeah completely if you're if a shark over I mean even if I six-foot shark wants you but that's the that's the misconception you know everyone thinks oh shark death you know jaws just everybody up no I was seven or something when I was six I think when jaws came out and I watched it you know I watched freaking poltergeist when I was like ten you know my parents let me watch everything and my - yeah maybe that's why I always thought there was some

73:32boogeyman in the closet or whatever but yeah and keeps you prepared maybe that's why I started training with a dragon you know but uh so jaws I wouldn't even go in the deep end of a pool I was so freaked out that I was like there's gonna be a shark at the deep end somewhere and you know I would only stay in the shallow end for a couple years when I was like five or six you know but uh yeah so anyway so Greg got to the hospital he was alright but there's about a year and a half ago a friend of ours who's a great big wave got like this guy's completely totally fearless he drowned in Fiji and um Greg who had who I talked about it Cortes Greg actually did CPR and brought him back Wow and they're they're you know the the big wave guys are a tight it's a tight bond of camaraderie with these guys because I mean yeah everyone wants that big wave they want that biggest wave

74:29didn't want something they've never had but they wanna they're they're all really close friends like they're they know that there's life and death having each other's backs and pretty much everyone knows CPR most yeah Melissa everybody there's courses that the big wave guys run every year they put these courses together a couple times a year specifically trained for the situations that we could be in and yeah so it's really it's really great because they bring in a lot of you know breath-hold deep freediving people and the best CPR and lifeguard guys in the world a lot of the best lifeguard guys in the world are already surfers anyway on the north shore around Oahu and Maui and I mean those are the guys you want you have your back when there's what in the surf zone some guy in the Coast Guard's probably not gonna be able to do the same like they might help your boat but

75:18they're not got and I'm not trying to put Coast Guard guys down at all in any way understand like these guys trained specifically for in the Whitewater in big surf you know they trained the SEAL Team six guys in Hawaii every year so there you know for heavy situations so how often do you actually see sharks it depends where you're at um in Florida I see sharks almost daily really yeah live in Florida I'm from Florida I still go back there and most days you surf you'll see in certain places you'll see a lot of Hawaii I live in here I live in Hawaii I live in Australia oh damn you're in Compton I'm a nomad I'm like a modern nomad you know but keep apartments in different places yeah so when I when I first started making money I thought it'd be cool to have a little place in each place I go that I kind of base out of so I can be feeling like home right on the roads that's

76:08another thing is like I've always I've I wanted to make the world like my home when I was a kid I just love traveling I love meeting people everywhere I love having these like sort of household feeling you know families everywhere and stuff so in Australia I bought a place in Sydney when I was 20 I with a friend you know I just bought this real humble two-bedroom tiny little two-bedroom on the beach like just back from the beach my old roommate and I talked about now we're like why didn't we buy that whole freaking apartment block you know because it was so cheap back then was like 150 bucks 150 thousand bucks per apartment Australian which was like $100,000 u.s. at the time so I I bought I own half of that for about 15 years and then I sold that and I bought another place up near on the Gold Coast in Australia well Australia has a lot of dangerous right they have every

76:57zone washer box jellyfish yeah they box jellyfish saltwater crocs lots of great whites sea salt rocks while you're surfing no I well I have yeah I have it Costa Rica do that scary those things you know people talk about sharks sharks don't hunt you they might bite you if they see you you know like but a saltwater croc that thing is watching you it can feel you walking and it knows from that vibration how close you are to the water's edge it knows example it can pinpoint to the water's edge where you're at ya know my friend Adam Greentree lives in Australia and they're not all over Australia they're everywhere no under your house no no they're waiting for you at the supermarket but they do keep track like I know that the closest one to the Gold Coast where I'm from is like it's still like 300 miles north or so you like 200 whatever it's like the closest saltwater croc yeah

77:52like they keep a track like you know they're pretty vigilant about how where they are what rivers they would because I get a warn people like don't swim here some people don't listen they're stupid they die but like a Crocs not gonna just sort of give you an exploratory bite like a great white might and right you know they're gonna snatch you and they're you know and they're not gonna get the surfboard in the way from the under bite you know they're gonna there was a horrible story that I read it I think it was in National Geographic about this these two people that were kayaking in a river in Africa and this guy was guy went with him did you this might be a different story I don't know what story did you hear this one was like these two guys were gonna do a first descent down this thing and they were contacting another guy who had done that River an American guy mhm and the

78:36American guy was like I can't miss this descent I gotta do this I got to do that whole river and then the three of them got into this zone where there was just Crocs everywhere and the river was real slow and wide and as soon as they got there all the rivers all the Crocs came off the riverbank and they were like oh there's like tons of oh and this guy's theory was to take his helmet and throw it off to the side so it would be like movement and distract them and they'd attack that and he paddle up the shore and all three of them got together and the American guy was on the right side and the oldest you guys were yeah then they were so close they could like the guy in the middle of I couldn't really paddle he was just kind of like you know trying to move along with them and so they figured if the bigger we are the bigger would look and more intimidating like maybe we'll

79:16be okay 15 18 foot croc comes up grabs the guy takes him out of his pulled him out his crack disappears they never see him again his backpack floats up and then his stuffs floating down down stream the other two guys get out of the water and I think I'm telling the story pretty good because I read it like five times yeah on line two and they got all the water and then there's a little village just down and there's a little bridge over and there were some boats but the boats were all dry docked and they went down and in broken English it was person that could talk to him whatever and they said you know our boats are not in the water because there's too many Crocs here like we know not to go in the water because they were like we need a boat we got to find his body we got to try and save him you know and then they went to the bridge and washed his stuff

79:59like float by that's the same story yeah is and the guy wasn't supposed to be on the trip and it was about they got the kayak flipping and then pulling his body out under the kayak yeah they're monsters it's a there's a show called uncharted they really are there's a show called Uncharted by with you've seen that show yeah my friend Jim shocky is Florida yeah that's a 15-foot alligator they found in Florida strolling across the golf course and the next day they found a giant snake a giant rattlesnake strolling across a golf course look at the size of that thing I fed you know his friends with Steve Irwin so he said go to God look at the size of that thing it's on a golf course here's the thing i-i-i think there's a misconstrued misconception about the crocs and they actually talked about this because I used to be friends with Steve Irwin before he passed away

80:53he taught he actually had me hand feed a 13 foot Crocs scariest thing I've ever done in my life terrified he I don't know he he told me you know you got a feat of croc you ever he's like Kelly you're ready mate you got a feed croc you got a feed a grow oh so for two nights so crazy for two nights I had nightmares look at this a few weeks what's this guy doing he's feeding them heads of these things look at their heads good lord and these are wild Crocs yeah well they look pretty like they know this guy's gonna feed him something they know something look at the heads on these things but see this is like the conception we the the concepts we have about these animals right we just think that they're just killers and whatever you ever see the guy in lee-moan Costa Rica who had a pet 15 foot croc yeah they didn't it's a crazy animal man yeah it's a croc to freak me out but

81:57I like I kind of mess up when I'm playing Golf I played a lot of golf when I'm in Florida I always mess with the Gators like I'll grab by the tail Wow yeah why it's kind of I don't know it's just like it's fun until you get your armpit off I guess but this guy's not even worried he doesn't even need to back step you know he's like well those are smaller yeah but that means I'm gonna rip your arm while Cheryl's but that's so small in comparison to those other ones I was fishing in Australia in this freshwater river but it goes down to the ocean so saltwater crocs come up it to a certain point there's like this Dam and they don't go past that so you know down here up here's all the fresh water down here is fresh and saltwater and we saw a few 15-foot Crocs this day and we're in a boat that was six feet wide about 18 feet long 15 18 feet long and you know

82:51the guy taking us he said you know we don't have problem in this boat but you know if you fell out of the boat there's a big problem but he was telling us a story one day I was fishing with these guys this one guys stand up in the boat fish and he falls out of it and the guy was about 250 pounds or something like a big dude like two maybe 300 pounds he's like a big overweight guy and he fell the boat and the guy said the guy was in the water for about two minutes and he was just like any second this guy is dead he's like there's nothing I can do and he said it was all they could do to hit that to get him from the front of the boat he was trying to pull up comp the side and he couldn't and he was panicking so he's you know when people go into panic mode like when people are drowning and they're panicking they say you got to punch him in the face and try

83:30to knock him out call him down and they they couldn't punch this guy like they were they were trying to get him to calm down and then to get him all the way the back of the boat cuz they had to get him up the transom and they said from there they could get leverage and lift her and it wouldn't flip the boat or whatever right but he said this guy was in the water for a couple minutes and and he's like at any time there's a croc that's big enough to eat you within sight of us here at all times but this guy said that he said that um the biggest you know I said what's the biggest one you ever seen because we've seen 15-foot Crocs like every 20 minutes every half an hour we see a 15-foot ya know Jemaine freaking ugly yeah and we're we're fishing oh my god um we're fishing for a barramundi yeah and and so we're fishing for barramundi and and I keep thinking like I don't know

84:17when you got one the line is like sharklet bite that thing or whatever and anyways we start asking the guy what's the biggest one you ever saw and he said might the biggest one I ever saw was about 28 feet yeah 29 feet maybe and he said he's only seen it once and he saw it from about a kilometer away and they estimated the size and he said this guy these guys in a helicopter saw it once and it doesn't stay in the river it stays out in the ocean and he said it's so smart it knows it's in silty water when nothing can see it there's nothing as big as it it owns its territory you know eight feet yeah and he said that he said that the back we're in the six foot boat and he said if this thing he goes I tell you this how big they are he goes this one would be he said if it was under our boat it would be sticking out about four to six feet on either side across his back sideways and we're

85:04in a six foot wide boat so he said it'd be like 15 foot across the back its back like that's how flat tough so think of the girth big 15 feet across the back yeah that's what this guy told me I don't know we didn't see it I mean we're seeing you know 15 footers that are like its girth close to that you know like a great white when you see a 15-foot great white its girth is 15 feet pretty much there so fast yeah once they get like 10 feet then they start getting fat and their girth gets about the length them so if you see a 15 or 20 foot 18-foot great white and you measure their girth it's pretty much their length how big to Crocs get I don't know this guy said I don't know this guy's claiming it's like most made the biggest croc in the world but there was one they called Gus or something in Africa I used to late night just YouTube this stuff and they were

85:50saying this is one that I'd eaten like they think it's eaten over 100 or 200 people in these villages oh and they think it's like 23 feet long or something well this Jim shocky show that I was talking about uncharted they caught him look at that thing the Savannah King is that a perspective shot though look how far back those I know you wonder you wonder yeah but people do that with pigs and they make them I do that was my 21:8 when I catch a fish it says 28 feet four inches so that makes sense what's that look up that's a replica of how big it was that thing that thing and everything that was alive before that - - you know like this go back to that picture Jamie that replica make that larger the replica and just make that larger look at the size of that thing Oh like what what is the largest confirmed ones because if that one is 28 feet four inches the thing about that

86:46when they said 28 feet 4 inches that's like back when people were full of yeah I mean this guy who told me this Aussie guy might have been trying to freak me out - I mean look at that thing that thing's 20 feet and it's not 20 feet across its back or twelve feet you know yeah but another 8 foot long that's pretty that's well you see when you see like a 5 foot croc our alligator and then you see a 10 foot the the girth relative to the length changes at that it's like a what it's talking about the ratio and the size yeah at one point right what does it say number one why is this a number one candidate this is a list of the top 10 so I think the largest Quantico Cambodia crocodile 7 me now is this just the the species they're talking about this is just the five largest crocodiles ever recorded on ok Cambodia showed the picture of the Cambodian 123 feet dozen out of pictures

87:37I would you not take a picture of a 23 foot long crocodile trust me bro she was big yeah I mean I would imagine that there's probably bigger ones out there I know there was a super killer croc that went extinct that far dwarf those over 60 feet are just giant enormous height of extinct pull up that extinct giant crocodile made a friend it was a commercial fisherman in South Africa and he like he told me he's like brew the biggest shocks away bigger than you think he's like yeah and I go I want to see a picture of something he said I'll tell you this I was on a 60-foot boat with 10 guys fishing almost he said like everybody in the boat saw this shark she said it camp next to their boat there were 20 miles off of Port Elizabeth where there's this reef they fish and he's claiming the thing was more than half the length of their 60-foot boat why yeah he's like it was

88:2835 feet that's what he tells me what is the biggest great white like 20 but he's saying there's it's big Jacques Cousteau supposedly film one in Cape Verde that they didn't have anything they couldn't tell the size because they didn't have some next to it he said it was close to 10 meters which is 30 feet but this guy this guy's telling me he goes no I've he goes I've seen the shark twice out there that's what he told me but I don't know they're out there every day that's the thing how many people are out there yeah I don't know you know it's like people are the biggest ones the biggest ones are smart you know yeah like I don't I really said big shark rarely I'll see you now I've seen a couple of great whites in South Africa jump look at that thing that that is the replica of something that used to exist twelve animals you're glad look at the skull this guy's basically standing

89:14inside the skull of this crocodile it's so freaky that man well that's that that's the premise of that stupid movie the meg Maggie I won't even watch it do you remember that movie the deep blue is that what it's called there was a shark that they were there were sharks they were training like they were like GMO sharks or so these genetically cloned sharks and they were supposedly training them and then they got too smart and they started eating everyone and then there's like you know the girl in the bikini and she has to like take off her wetsuit because it's I don't know there's you see these movies and you just like the the artistic license on these things are so bizarre there's no truth to it it's like oh you know what you know what dangerous waters not dangerous ice is dangerous yeah good moving see that I mean I wouldn't I wouldn't see that coming at

90:23all I wouldn't have go in the water four seconds after that movie you know I actually was Ruth Samuel Jackson like three weeks ago in Paris no one golf together but how big I wanted to ask him about that but I didn't either no two balls I mean how big do you think they could be and people don't know I mean 30 feet sounds reasonable if they think they're 25 feet there could be one that's thirty feet maybe yeah I mean I think it's reasonable to go but that's a lot more years in eating and no one saw it during that time I mean it's kind of like UFOs I got to see one yeah you've seen sharks and we know they get big and we're not doesn't know how many people are out there looking for them that's the thing but they don't they film one they call big blue last year I think in Guadalupe Island I think it was and it was 20 his line or your money two feet yeah the

91:16videos online and it's you know a big day look right yeah this thing's face and nose looks small cuz its body so huge it must've been a pregnant female or something but its body looks like even bigger around in the length and they said it was 20 this thing she like its face almost looks like small see the girth the girth is so for larger sharks seven meters so that's 20 22 feet 23 feet what this guy touches it that comes out of the cage and touches it oh look at the size of this thing that's another thing that's the shark feeding freaks me out there's this guy touch that watch he just comes out and he's like I gotta touch this creature to get out of that but she like its face almost looks small compared to help right it's so massive so scary that is so big it looks like a whale it literally looks like a whale oh my god and to think that there's something out

92:14there that's ten feet bigger than that well killer whale could eat that thing's liver without thinking about it that's it and killer whale is just a dolphin it's so weird to think that that thing has dominance over that thing it is but there's just so much smarter yeah some of us there so much more agile so much smarter how much what this is a sevengills where they call that a Greenland shark yeah they think isn't wasn't that one of the speculations of what the Loch Ness monster was I think there was some sort of a landlocked Green or not lamb but it wouldn't have been in the Loch no they think was the Loch because it was trapped because the law used to be connected to I think that was a twig driftwood man or it could be like a sturgeon or some like that like there was one of one of those was Lake Champlain or one of those yeah the surgeons are here yeah surgeons are

93:05crazy yeah that's uh that's another dime alligator gar you seen those things oh yeah man my friends went fishing for them yeah they haven't made Texas yeah you can catch them in Texas those things are bizarre I don't think you're noodling for those things I mean that would be I'd love to go take my friends and just go noodle in sometimes sounds kind of creepy your girlfriend be like what noodling Oh for catfish yeah yeah but but you can accidentally get turtles sometimes those snapping turtles bite your arm off wouldn't it would just break your arm in half probably you up I mean I'm sure dudes probably lost fingers snap what's that yeah actually Google that and the snapping turtle incidents popped up don't show me this cuz that's like two razors they're like two razors that go yeah like garden shears yeah yeah taking your arm off oh I mean what how often

94:03have you encountered orcas I've never seen an orca really no no no I mean not other than two worlds kidnapping in them foxy world yeah I don't so I just don't understand I mean I guess I understand cuz I was a kid once and I went there but I don't understand how a rational logical thinking adult could take their kids to SeaWorld after all the information that's out there about about their social behaviors about how smart these animals are about how got into a lot of people unfortunately yeah I know I agree with you if you did get the information yeah a lot of people just don't know they think well they're they're fed they're healthy nice yeah they don't yeah I got in this battle with and look I'm no scientists Ebates time but I'm no scientist obviously I just I think I have a pretty good heart and I feel bad for animals that are locked up that need to travel 100 miles a day yeah in their

95:00social packs and they need to have interaction with other animals and they need a certain amount of space I mean imagine you think about solitary confinement for a prison a guy a prisoner who's you know who's in a a room that's no wider than they are tall and maybe twice as twice as long as they are tall you know and and there's no interaction with other people they go crazy most people come out of prisons and jails worse than they went in because of this kind of thing that happens to him yeah but think of being in there for 30 years just wondering guys there's another whale on the other side of that wall can I get some fish and I mean you know you go nuts and you see these videos of the the trainer that was killed and a trainer one trainer luckily the guy was a great free diver and he lived through a basically an attack by an orca and the thing knew he wanted to

95:48get over to that wall and he went no I'm not gonna play with you and I'm just gonna keep pulling you down and pulling you down the guy was good enough free diver to be able to know okay I got a conserve my energy I got to bring my heart rate down I'm gonna have to hold my breath against my will when I don't know what's gonna happen a friend of mine used to work at Marineland in Canada my friend Phil Phil DeMars and he was an orca trainer and you know and he's trying to get marine land closed down there's this big lawsuit with them and he's been involved in a lawsuit with them for over five years now I was just hanging out with him in Toronto and he was a walrus trainer and this is walrus that he was taking care of it's the only one that's left there that survived and Marineland is like slowly going bankrupt the guy was the original owner is now quickly go bankrupt

96:36it's so dark man the whole the whole business is so dark because you know a lot of them say oh we won't take any you know orcas or dolphins from captivity but they'll get them from people that stole them in the wild and they they breed you know I think there's no more breeding a lot in America yeah but they'll get him from someone read him in Canada or Russia rather or China or where someplace where there's not as many rules you know John Lily who was the guy who actually invented the isolation tank is a he was a pioneer in interspecies communication which is it's a weird field he was a scientist that was also he took like extreme liberties with his scientific research took a lot of acid gave acid to dolphins did a lot of dolphin research in the floatation tank did a lot of really really wacky right there he believed that one day dolphins were gonna have a seat in the United Nations

97:31he believed we're gonna be able to communicate with dolphins and that dolphins were gonna be recognized as water people he thought they were gonna be literally they thought there was smartest human beings aging and if we could figure out how to communicate with them they would have the same rights as human beings yeah and guy was a genius yeah I mean just he and I agree with them I think there's just a level of communication there's a way that they have of communicating that we don't understand but it's a super complex very of their own dialects yeah they they have this crazy social code I mean they they have something like incredibly dynamic about their their environment and they're they're they're they're you know there's social groups to be to be able to speak a language you need to know like 150 words there was a dolphin and you're like 700 words or 300 words I

98:22don't know it's like hundreds like commands yeah human words yeah you know how many dolphin words we know zero yeah clue we have no idea what the them stupid stop giving me macro they're like they don't know we're making fun of them for hundreds of years I don't think they know what to do with them well one of the things that phil was working with was there's a group what was that group that were they're trying to they're gonna create a boundary out in the ocean and slowly release these dolphins and orcas out into this boundary and then you know and keep feeding them but then slowly release ocean for open ocean pens yeah yeah they're talking about doing that possibly and that would be a way for people to act experience it because the idea is that you and I had a debate with this trainer I watched blackfish and it just freaked me out and everything of course it's there's probably a lot of

99:19confirmation bias to surprise some information in there that is is not totally unbiased right obviously they're trying to make a point but this woman was talked to all the different trainers and stuff I got in contact a guy got in contact with me that was a trainer and he said Kelly the whole movie is BS I think I believe this guy was actually in the movie usually was all bs orcas live longer in in captivity than Indian they do in the wild he told me that workers haven't been in captivity as long as they live yet so we don't know that so that's completely a lie it's he has no idea if that's true he said they're more healthy he told me all these things and I just finally went this guy's just full of I I don't know I I can't buy what he's telling me and he's but he said I'm a trainer I've been a trainer for it I I looked at moms bias because that's what makes his living exactly and

100:09I know some dolphin trainers and I actually went to SeaWorld a few times in Australia I used to know a few other trainers back in the late nineties and I went there a few times when with the dolphins the first day I was there one thing is I asked him was like do they well these guys ever get set free and right then I could feel a little pullback you know like straight away I could feel like um maybe and I release my slaves yeah I felt a little uncomfortable that keep asking questions because it is their livelihood and I had a respect for that and I know that all these trainers love these animals they really truly like probably love them more than most people but that doesn't make it right right at all and there are probably some animals that can handle being in a zoo or they're happy they're giraffes dry bit about that they just walk around with snow lion yeah

100:54kangaroos you know they get fed well they don't really need them I have anything that's a predator that's going after them there's I mean they let babies feed giraffes at the zoo yeah cuz there's so yeah my friend has a giraffe in Malibu really yeah your friend has a giraffe has a giraffe how ball or is your friend's awesome when come over your house you got a job they bought it for like 30 grand or some 20 grand yeah here's my god oh that's my giraffe they got some emus come on inside our chef will be cooking for you your I will fly to Jamaica my private jet got a giraffe yeah can't be poor and they got a winery they got a giraffe they got some winery yeah their family has like all this acres but anyways this draft super cool you come up and you debtor this is in Malibu Malibu yeah I guess it's called Malibu wine wine or Malibu winery or something man wake up with a mountain lion eating

101:43that giraffe I know they gotta watch out there's a mountain lion that killed like 11 alpacas up there my friend lives in Topanga Canyon and he he came home whenever one night a mountain lion got into his pig pen or goat pen or something anymore and it had to figure out like he had this the way he had his thing it couldn't climb up the fencing or break under it it had tried apparently the thing knew to climb up this tree and drop from like 12 feet or 15 feet down into the pen what yeah yeah it had to climb this tree head he has cameras and stuff so it figured it out yeah I figured it out yeah those things but you know I went to Muscle Bay and in South Africa I was always interested to do one of those shark dive feeding tours and I said I'll go check it out got there get on the boat and you go out and you don't want I didn't wanna bring my own wetsuit cuz I don't want all this

102:42fish slime all over it you know what I mean it's like I want to go back to surfing the next day it's um back in Jeffrey's Bay smelling like fish yeah and so get on the boat go out there and where they feed them there's like these couple of little rock islands that stick up right there and they just Park the boat as soon as they park the boat boom the Sharks are on you sharks are pretty inquisitive anyways even when I've been on boats out in the ocean fishing or diving I wasn't Papua New Guinea one time we pulled up everywhere we anchored immediately be three to five maybe more sharks on the boat that come up from the deep check you out what is that boom and then they kind of disappear then they're probably watching because they can they know what's going on but the great whites pop up I think that day we saw about eight or ten great whites different size and ages and whatever and

103:29uh but about five hundred yards away they were guys surfing and I was like this is weird man like there's no way I'd be surfing and these guys surf there every day and then there's a couple other spots a couple friends of mine like grew up in that area and they surf these reefs that are like right back where we came a mile a mile from there in the boat just on just in the outside of this harbor and there's kind of two ways of thinking like number one the thing that bothers me with it is that these like sharks know where they got up they got off a meal sharks they tag sharks they know they come back to hunting place where they got a seal the year before or whatever and they're there at the same time you know they're they're the same month or whatever so like claw September October they're like you're on your internal yeah and then they go down to Guadalupe Island and then then they go

104:19out about thousand miles off the coast and they believe they breed out there and then a lot of the females will go to Hawaii and the male's that come back and kind of do that route back up the coast but they they the craziest thing about these animals they know how to just free swim like even if I'm swimming on the surface I gotta like put my head up and go okay where's the beach where is it you know which direction am I going imagine like they can just swim out in the ocean and find each other a thousand miles from shore and breed out in the middle of nowhere how do they how do they do that they all know to get to this place smell yes imagine like fish smell imagine how bad shark smells probably like real distinct I don't know I mean animals have the crazy smells well great other when they're breeding and organ knows that there's a liver in that great white and he's gonna smash it

105:10and eat the liver out of that and leave the shark yeah how they smell that with ice that's what all alpha males like in the wolf pack's when they kill a thing the alpha male always eats the liver well it's the most nutrient dense organ yeah well they're so what I don't like is that sharks I believe are equated okay I see a boat I see a person whatever that thing is and he's got food Brian I just don't like that equation it stinks yeah it sucks and so like all these shark weeks and stuff they're all filming off a Cape Town and they're they're sharks I think they're educating the Sharks that like you see a human it's not fear it's right and it's not necessarily the person's food but they have food and if they don't give it it's like a spearfisherman shooting a fish you don't give up your fish shark will bite you sometimes well you know that's the case in Kodiak

105:57Island with grizzly bears they said the grizzly bears have gotten so used to the sound of a gunshot meaning a deers dead Oh towards the sound of a gunshot yeah there's no solution here a gunshot if someone shot a moose or someone shot a deer that means that's the dinner bell you know so they run towards gunshot sounds yeah there's an island up in the Aleutians that has a bunch of caribou on it you know about that mm-hmm you know and no bears yeah yeah I was gonna go my friend Adam Adam green tree that we're just talking about a shot that water buffalo above my head just shot a giant moose and a grizzly bear stole it no in the Yukon last week Wow not even last week three days ago it might be still in his Instagram story but they they took some air seal eating that thing right now well the bear buried it buried it buried a giant walking nuts well it's an

106:49enormous bear yeah it's a bear in the Yukon so you talk I was embarrassed easily 11-foot bear so this bear buried his entire moose and it's all huge moose like an 1800 try moving that moose one foot yeah this bear just picked it up and dug it yeah like a front-loader like or one of those cranes just digs foundations for houses and what they just like like the meat too rotten and they grind it like well they also want to cover it so the birds don't find it and then nothing else can see it so they think they'll cover the moose and he just decided it was his yeah and so they they were terrified when they got there they found that the moose was covered they knew was a grizzly that did it because he was so big so they just took some of the meat and ran like they're so primal cuz they could only cry oh jeez no much at a time but why would you even take any I just I mean I

107:41think comes back smells you look at that's the Moose they shot besides that thing I mean that is a massive moose a friend of mine got a moose last year but he's got photos to go to the photo of what he got the out of the moose from the bear he got a bag a small bag this one might be that mm that might kill anymore yeah click on that you can see the video let's play that for buried the whole group come on this Barry oh my gosh yeah you sure wouldn't a skunk ape the Dale look at that look look look that's a freaky okay I don't like this I would like we got the out here plus they're bowhunting they don't even have guns no gun you ever hear that story of the guy who's the kid who's getting attacked by the bear the Grizzly running down a hill and his dad was looking up with the bow you hear the story no you gotta find this story it's so sick the dad was looking at the guy decides to go

108:44up this Ridge his kid he's like 25 years 20 year old kid or whatever and he's going up the ridge and he sees a couple bear cubs or whatever and then oh no there's mom think comes after I'm just charging he comes running back down the hill but he's straight in line with the with the bear the dad is like looking at him pulled back ready to let let an arrow fly and the kids exactly in line with the bear oh my god and as the Bears like getting to him the kids kind of side steps and the dad lets it fly and it hits the bear in the heart and the bear falls on the kid starts ripping at him and dies whoa outdoor life September 2000 his 37 so yeah Wow oh honey yeah it like you know me it it got him and started tearing at him and died on him Jesus Christ I passed my dad and I saw an arrow fly by my leg about two feet away dad kept it together tell you what there's some

109:46serious target panic there yeah you better get your son's in front of you oh my god I hate to wrap this up but I gotta get out of here it's really 6:30 I had a question for you please I was talking about this with a couple friends of mine that you are exposed to probably more information and people and and all that and more walks of life than maybe anybody world you really said you everything about that because you get such a diverse group of people to come talk to you from politicians to chemists and scientists and athletes and you just know so much information about so many topics it's really know like scattering little flow you know a little bit about everything sort of like sometimes yeah but I mean I think it's cool because you're just in this you're in sort of in this you're in this place where now that information is so readily available to you firsthand yeah well I definitely

110:44learned a lot but what's interesting is that this was never the plan yeah this is all just complete happenstance and good fortune I mean this this whole thing just started out talking with comedian friends yeah yeah and then slowly but surely someone's like I want to go on like okay come on and then you know I got like Anthony Bourdain was one of the first guests that was like a guest guest and then we buddies with him did you become friends with that thing it's Beyonce but like yeah so your experience now is like your flow state it's just like it's just happening and is it do you enjoy it I love it I look forward to meeting interesting people and meeting you know people like you and people like you know Neil deGrasse Tyson or Graham Hancock or there's so many different people that can come on and talk about so many different fascinating things that maybe

111:36a lot of people just weren't exposed to the information for that um just to wrap up that foot things I didn't it'll be super short I got a second surgery in February put me off for about six weeks I surf for about six weeks and I started getting good again and then I thought because my foot was so tight I did like a turf toe tear on the bottom and I ripped the plantar fasciitis or whatever so I've been fighting out but I'm I'm right back now I'm going to start competing in December again nice um so yeah I want to go to one of those live where is there anyone live around here any any competition that I could see uh not really around here what would I have to go Hawaii yeah Kona Hawaii when December one's the second week of December second week yeah it's in between it's in between UFC's there's actually there's actually a Bellator that week oh that's right yeah that card Wow I

112:28forget the card my friend Dustin barça's fighting on it though man I was planning on seeing phaidor vs. Ryan Bader it was gonna be at the door a door is that we're happening yeah on the 26 but now what is it November - no not December 26 well whatever the date is there's a UFC now hmm yeah I wanted to see him live yeah but there's a Bellator I mean I don't know if you're are you contract early all Begay today no not go to those now go yeah there's one that week and we have a serve Connors at pipeline who's on that Bellator card because Michael Chandler the main is Valerie Letourneau first McFarland now you can say Lima Lima Lima Lima Carlin she must be how what you know we could try the local on the local car yeah man Liotta was great undefeated and Rafa Marlo was a bad that's a good fight you mean Gracie and that's a good fight King oh and Liam McGeary that's a good fight too

113:38come on out he's a friend of mine Kona Oliveira okay he's a surfer guy what a weird Bella towards got a very strange Hardy's website yeah hmm 15th is this one so that's the same week and what island is this surf contest on Oahu same as Honolulu okay it's on the North Shore I'll send you some surf for Kay I'll tell you what days running okay try it again I will try I really want to see one live yeah Shane will be there he's probably compete but he'll probably do commentary for it Shane's gonna be here real soon he's here the day of sober October the November 5th show you got me in here early you got you got me in I didn't I don't I don't drink much but I was like I was in Paris that would a week soups October started yeah you know what you know I'm just like going to my friend's restaurant every night having a drink or two and yeah it's stupid you know yeah

114:29and so I just feel so much better not having even a beer you know it's just it's a good look I enjoyed it last year last year we did fifteen days of hot yoga we had to do 15 hot yoga classes 90-minute classes you know that was kind of a pain the ass this year's way more of a pain in the ass this year we're doing this crazy fitness competition we're wearing this my zone heartrate monitor and you get a certain amount of points for every minute you're in you know like 80% of your max heart rate 70 percent of your max right heart rates are just every day you're just dude I worked out for five and a half hours today five hours I'm trying to kill my friends I surf for five hours yesterday now I just haven't served much less I'm not bullshitting I worked for worked out for five people you're exaggerating no it's documented I did how much of that powers nine hundred and thirteen

115:17points how many are all their pants right now how many 929 four quit how many minutes do you know how many minutes today you were at 80% heart rate or whatever worse all those hours this month yes know that today Oh today I was at hours at 80% of couple hours more like three Wow for three hours at 80% of my max heart rate it had to be because 913 you get 240 what's the endgame per minute the endgame is I win nobody I mean do you go do a triathlon afterwards I don't know I'm in crazy shape right now I tell you yeah you are I mean I go on ten I'm like Jesus freaking ripped but I mean I'm I've literally never been in better cardiovascular shape in my life I worked out for five and a half hours today so what do you do with anything with that besides just feel good like like just kept trying to get my belt we have a championship belt like a WWE belt at the end of this is

116:09this intergalactic champion to sober October and I'm just trying right now I'm trying to literally kill my friends that are trying to compete yet me I want I want them to regret getting into this competition with me because I don't think they totally understand how crazy I am and so this thing started heating up I told them I'm gonna do nine hundred and twenty nine points every day right now Jesus sixteen hundred points ahead of the second place do you ever fast have you fast dead no no no I've done intermittent fasting like fast like 16 hours but never like a Master Cleanse for 10 days awesome no I like food too much but I do enjoy intermittent fasting I'd like to do 16 hours I've done like 9/10 day fast of Master Cleanse mmm but dude that's its I recommend it because you get all the stuff out of your colon that looks like your colon and it's like old poop and it it's kind

117:00of real I swag on it I came out of my body I thought I pooped out my colon so it's like when you haven't eaten in like two days now I'm wrong about you you know you still poop the whole poop every day a little bit really yeah Wow it's crazy that's got it but then this stuff comes out of your gut they call mucoid plaque you can google that and it is like 20 30 40 years of stuff built up from the mucus your body creates when it doesn't like what you're eating and that goes down and it gets stuck on this on the walls your intestines oh and it's like tire rubber and you poop it out it looks exactly like the shape of your intestine I thought it was my intestine so you thought you out part of your body I did it was freaky and how did how could you feel when this is over you look like a sea I didn't know that does look like intestine yeah it looks like intestine dude it's gross so that's what

118:00comes after your nutrients have to go through that to get Wow you know how long well maybe I'll do that right after I'm done with so rocktober when Google the mass days because you're drinking a tea of like maple syrup lemon and cayenne pepper for how many so I kind of like it it I did it for 10 days 10 days no food just that yeah woah yeah but I got that stuff coming out after about five days because I was really aggressive with the you do a salt water flush every day every morning yeah and then you take this smooth move tea that makes you kind of like go to the bathroom well I'll tell you one thing that I have been doing because I've been sweating so much yeah i videotaped one day the sweat puddles that are left in the juice all the same I watch them and then I set off my alarm yes I'm in my gym from my sweat and today it was so bad it was when you lap the field of

118:49your friends yeah today was so bad too because today I did the longest that I've ever worked out but I know your nutrition is good to some of me but you got to be thinking about what's going out and where you got to put back in well that's one of the things I've been making water with electrolytes and I'm adding salt I'm adding Himalayan salt yeah to the water but I may be added too much and when I talk about just forget diarrhea it's not really dying we can't it's basically two tables water coming out of my ass yeah because it's I mean it would be like I would feel it like you don't pee it out Oh boom it was like opening floodgates and gallons of water would come out of my ass most people should do that like once or twice a month two tables two teaspoons of salt in one liter of water or water bang and it your body ceases food not as pee right and it just means you and you

119:46never stay home for that one I wasn't staying home I would just jump off the treadmill for five minutes take a volumous of water it was basically water coming out of my but you know it probably cleans up a lot right it cleans it cleans yeah yeah stuff weird stuff floating around in there you know what that was my body uses so much energy for digestion yeah but I got these guys that fall in line that do water fast like every month and they're doing a five to ten day water fast coming up this week I'm not elegant participating in that one but I want to do a fast soon so great how much did you look forward to that drink the tea with the I mean if you're not how I really enjoyed our ease yeah I really enjoyed it lose a lot of weight I lost yeah I didn't weigh myself but I think I lost 10 to 12 pounds that's a lot yeah yeah really I was pretty shredded but I was thin too

120:34you know right but Bobby then you build back at that first date I ate afterwards you know it was like the best food I ever had you know just like you've never did ten whole days of just the tea yeah Wow and the end oh and a salt water flush every day and the smooth move tea which I was doubling up on so I was because I didn't have the full 14 days so I'm like I gotta go fast but I was getting stomach cramps because I drink it too much of that tea I'll try that yeah at least Google and look and and but when you can when you can abstain from food it's it's like you could quit heroin or something people are so addicted to food mm-hmm look at people they're saying because of this like I'm the amount of calories that I'm consuming like let me tell how much I burned today cuz it's so goddamn insane today I burned I mean this doesn't even it doesn't even seem real but I burned

121:264217 calories during this workout yeah that's our you just circuiting the whole time well I ran the hills around two miles with my dog in the hills yeah which believe it or not you don't get that many points for cuz this thing sucks it's way harder than the other things that I'm doing because it's basically straight up but I'm just trying to I have a two-year-old golden retriever and he's got so much goddamn energy he's the best but I gotta wear his ass out otherwise he annoys everybody and jumps up on people it just needs attention but when I run with him he's chill so I'll do two miles in the what here and just give you a I'm gonna plug my buddies in life I love this stuff yeah what is this one that's a dawn patrol it's like cold brew coffee coconut coconut cream coconut sugar anyways well you go into my bed sometimes I go in there all the time yes ie they have great everything I live

122:24there like sometimes I'll spend half the day there and get to my meals bone broth - I love the bone broth that it's like his khalil special style yeah yeah with the cayenne pepper and that's sensational was I saying oh that's not good for that many points no a system that is not aging that's going uphill it's like it's more grinding you know it's like just if you get to 80% of your max heart rate and just dry you guys got money on this thing no just the belt just the belt yeah yeah and and bragging rights yeah you'll be like Kobe be like he wears my belt give me my belt me but I won't keep me this is number one send me a location a location Kelly I'm glad we finally did this me too man thanks a lot thank you guys all right we'll be back tomorrow folks we got two two tomorrow and my round earth shirt thank you yeah round Earth show Marquis brat Marcus Brownlee you'll be here at

123:21ten and Kyle kolinsky will be here at 1:00 so see you tomorrow bye